Satteelee aenold



(Model.)

s. ARNOLD. MANUFAGTURE OF'KNIT GOODS.

Patented May 29,1883.

Harney/0" )D Il I SES W MK@ N. PETRRS Pham-Umuqnphor. washingmn, D 'c.

sA'rTnRLEE ARNoLD, OFNENV YORK, N. Y.,'AssIeNoR ToANNA` M. ARNOLD,

or SAME PLAGE.

`MANUFACTURE OFl KNIT GOODS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 278,486, dated May 29,1883.

Application filed April 24, (Specimens.)

To all whom it may concern i Be it known that I, SATTERLEE ARNOLD, acitizen `of the-United Statesof America, residing at New York, in thecounty of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in the Manufacture of Knit Goods; and I do herebydeclare the following to be a full, clear, and exact de` scription ofthe invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which itappertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates-to a new method of manufacturing ordinary articlesof wearingapparel of knit fabrics, known to the trade as knit goods;7but may -be also usefully applied in connection "with other fabrics andgoods.

The special object of my invention is to produce an improved manufactureof knit goods by uniting their adjacent abutting out edges in animproved manner, so as to form what I term seamless cut goods7 orordinary articles of apparel, the parts of which have raw or cut edges,as distinguished from selva ge edges, and yet are united smoothlywithout a seamridge.

Prior to my invention two principal classes of knit goods have been madeand placed upon the marketto wit, fashioned goods and out goods. t Thefashioned goods are formed with selvage edges which allow of their beingsmoothly joined by ordinary overseamingstitches, either by hand ormachine,kwithout appreciable seams or ridges. and these goods are soldat high prices. The cut goods are joined by lapping the edges and thenuniting them by a row of chain-stitches necessarily formed some distancefrom the edges in order to secure sufcient strength or hold to preventthe stitches from pulling out. This unavoidably causes large andobjectionable seamrid ges, and hence these cut goods are inferior andhave to be sold at about half the price of full fashioned goods of thesame quality. By my invention `I completely removethe objectionableseam-ridge in lthe cnt goods and at the same time secure such strengthand elasticity of union of the raw edges that my improved goods possesssubstantially the same qualities as the seamless or fashioned goods,

and can be sold at a small per cent.l above the price of the commondefective seamed cut` goods, because the expense of making selvage-edges to avoid seam-ridges, as in. fashioned goods, is saved.

ssV

My invention alsoconsists in the combina tion, with two pieces of cutknit goods having their edges abutted, of a series of overseaming andanchoring stitches, the latter being at a greater distance than theformer from the adjacent abutted edges. y

In the annexed drawings, forming a part of this specification, Figurel-is a top view oftwo pieces of knitv fabric with the edges abutting,showing a portion and the character of the stitches on an enlargedscale. Fig. 2 is anunder side view of the same, showing the oppo-` siteside of the stitches on an enlarged scale. Fig. 3 is a sectional viewtaken through the line .r of Fig. l. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 are views of anundershirt, a pair of drawers, and hose of the knit class, made with myimproved stitches, the stitches being shown on enlarged scale.

In carrying out my invention I prefer to employ a sewing-machine of myown invention, the needle ofwhich has apendulous or lateral motion vtomake four punctures and three stitches in the transverse or lateral pathof the sewing while the feeding device moves the materia!longitudinally, for which machine a sepa rate application for a patentis pendingfin the United States Patent Office, filed February 1U. 1881,Serial No. 25,813. In this connection I desire to remark that l wish itdistinctly understood that I reserve the right to employ any othermachine capable of making this. novel stitch, and that the manufactureof the goods is not dependent upon my special machine.

The materials to be sewed are placed under the presser-foot by abuttingtheir cut edges, "and the needle punctures the material a short distancefrom one edge atl. The materials 'a unites the materials.

are then' moved together forward slightly by the feed-motion, then inthe meantime the needle moves sidewise'and punctures the same piece asecond time at 2, between the rst puncture and the edge, making from thefirst to the second puncture .what I term an anchor7'or auxiliarystitch'. The needle is then moved still farther sidewise across the lineof division of the parts until it has passed over the edges of theabutting materials, When it descends to make puncture 3 in the other oradjacent piece, and form a stitch from the second to the third puncture,Which I term the uniting77 or overseaming7 stitch, from the fact that itcrosses the line of division and Then the materials are again movedforward slightly by the feed-motion and the needle moved still fartherside- Wise and punctures the material at 4, beyond the edge and puncture3, and forms another anchoring or auxiliary stitch, thus finishing ashort line of three stitches, the rst and third being anchoring orauxiliary stitches for reenforcing or binding the uniting or overseamingstitch to the body of the materials. The needle then rises and. moveslaterally in the contrary direction to-its previous lateral move ymentto begin the formation ot" a second short line of similar stitches insubstantially the same manner, thus making two short lines of stitchesboth extending across the edges of the materials, one crossing fromright to left and the other rcversely from left to right, as seen inFigs. 1, 2, and 3, both lines of stitches being connected together andboth having two uniting or overseaming stitches to confine the loosefilaments or threads tightly in place, and both having four auxiliarystitches to firmly anchor the uniting-stitches to the body ot' thefabric. The machine then repeats thestitches as just set forth, and acontinuation of such motions of the needle will result in a line ofsewing being formed, made up of a series of diagonal anchoring-stitchesuniting stitches on both sides ofthe fabric across the edges andapproximately at right angles to the said edges,

' substantially as seen in Figsl and 2 of the drawings, in which theletter a represents the uniting or overseaming stitches, and b theanchoring or auxiliary stitches. The anchoring-stitch is that in whichone of the punctures is at a greater distance than the other from theedge of the fabric. The seams of cut knit goods-for example,undershirts, drawers, and hose-having their edges united by thesecompound stitches will have no ridges or Welts, and the goods will bewhat is ordinarily termed seamless,77 and tbe scams Will be ot' greatstength and elasticity.

It will be observed that my improved knit goods are produced by themechanical organization or combination in a novel and useful relation toeach other of the parts or elements' which make up the goods asspecified-to Wit, first, the abutting raw or cut edges of knit fabric;second, the overseaming-stitches; third,"

ing an overseaming-stitch across the line of 8o union and nearer theabutted edges than said anchoring-stitch, and finally forming ananchoring-stitch in the fabric farther from the abutted edges than theoverseaming-stitch, substantially as set forth.

2. The combination, with two pieces of cut knit goods having their edgesabutted, of a series of overseaming and anchoring stitches, the latterbeing at a greater distance than the former from the adjacent abuttededges, sub- 9c stant'ially as described.

In testimony whereofl aiiix my signature in presence of witnesses.

- SATTERLEE ARN OLD.

Witnesses:

W. H.l L. LEE, R. A. PIPER.

